Jeremy Allen White Image Jeremy Allen White for Calvin Klein campaign. Image Courtesy of People Magazine.Image 2. Elsa Peretti in New York. Image Courtesy of Arteve Gallery.

Calvin Klein has long been synonymous with sexy, conversation-starting campaigns, famously featuring chiseled bodies adorned with “Calvins or nothing.” Their latest viral sensation, starring ‘The Bear’s top chef, Jeremy Allen White, and British singer FKA Twigs, evokes the sexually charged visual photography of the 70s, particularly the groundbreaking and erotic work of Helmut Newton.

Newton, often dubbed “The King of Kink,” was a trailblazer in fashion photography. His images were characterised by provocative and erotically charged content. He created a distinctive visual language that intertwined artifice, reality, glamour, eroticism, and power — revolutionising how fashion was portrayed in magazines and advertising. 

Working for prestigious publications such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle, Newton’s distinctive style incorporated strong, powerful women in dominant roles. In each frame, he wove a narrative beyond mere fashion; it was a story of strength and sensuality. His visual storytelling used innovative compositions, unusual angles, and dramatic lighting, creating a palpable sense of tension and voyeurism. 

Image of FKA Twigs. FKA Twigs for Calvin Klein. Image Courtesy of FKA Twigs. Image of Charlotte Rampling as Venus in furs Charlotte Rampling as Venus in furs. Image Courtesy of Helmut Newton Fact & Fiction.

Newton once said, “My job as a portrait photographer is to seduce, amuse, and entertain.” and he went on to do just that. 

His ability to infuse high art into eroticism set him apart. In today’s more permissive climate, where boundaries are continually pushed, Newton’s nude compositions may have lost some initial shock value. But his legacy still lives on as brands like Calvin Klein reinterpret what it means to put desire on display. 

The parallels between Newton’s era and Calvin Klein’s advertising are evident. In a series of steamy images, Jeremy Allen White climbs stairs, flexes muscles, and stares intensely into the camera – all while donning the brand’s iconic logo-emblazoned cotton underwear. Notably, one shot of White with the New York skyline echoes Helmut Newton’s iconic shot of Elsa Peretti, while FKA Twigs’ bold photo mirrors that of Charlotte Rampling as Venus.

This connection between Newton’s visual language and Calvin Klein’s advertising moves beyond the visuals. The brand, with its documented history of courting controversy, understands the commodification of desire and the power of photography to deliver that. Whether it’s a provocative billboard in the 70s or thirst traps in social media feeds — the trend of “Sex Sells” in visual culture is certainly enduring.

But don’t be mistaken, Newton’s approach to eroticism transcended mere controversy. It aimed to elevate sensuality to the realm of highly polished high art. He delighted in challenging societal norms and sparking conversations that surpassed the confines of fashion.

Helmut Newton’s provocative legacy lives on in Calvin Klein’s daring campaigns. The brand captivates audiences by embracing a visual language that challenges societal norms, blurring the lines between fashion, art, and erotica. If it results in captivating photographs like these, all we can say is – Yes, Chef!

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